Contraposition

Have any of you been enjoying the release of patterns from Jennifer Beale’s new book? I know I have. The book, Landed, Volume 1: Timeless Lace and Stranded Knitting Patterns for the Adventurous Handknitter, was released as an ebook in May, and every week this summer she has released a pattern for individual purchase as well. The last one showed up in my threads today. Jennifer’s patterns are so creative and interesting, and I was really pleased to see that she was releasing a collection.

Her design work has always featured unusual constructions and a mix of knitting styles and techniques used within the same garment, in contraposition to each other. This collection is marked by the use of fair isle knitting along with lace, combined with architectural details and different directions of stitches and fabrics combined into pleasing wholes.

My favorite is probably Cappahayden, for sheer fun:

© Jennifer Beale

It is such a pleasing combination of airy lace and fair isle that plays on the patchwork theme that is so big these days, while doing it with a very modern panache.

For another look entirely, here is Cape Spear:

© Jennifer Beale

My first reaction on seeing this one was to wonder “which one is the pattern for – the pullover or the cowl?”. In fact, they are a single garment: a sweater in a dainty lace chevron pattern, with a drapey, voluminous, colour work cowlneck. The more I look at this one, the more I like it. It has a touch of the 1970s about it, without being too 1970s (as someone who lived through the era can attest to).

Sometimes, I am just awed by her tricky constructions, and want to knit them just to be part of the high tech cleverness of her designs. Have a look at the fair isle trim on these pockets, from the design Wabana:

© Jennifer Beale

This cardigan not only has the cool pockets and assymetric shape but is combined with a lace stitch pattern on the back. It is a really lovely design.

I’ll finish with one last photo. I could have picked any of them, as they are all fun and unique, but I was very drawn to this coat, Aquaforte, released today:

© Jennifer Beale

You can find the collection on Jennifer’s website, here, or on Ravelry here. Make sure you take a look at the amazing skirt, Branch, and the ethereal shawl, Mickeleens Path. The collection is for “the adventurous handknitter” and I don’t think that is overstated. Still, these patterns make me want to take on a knitting challenge.

Are any of you planning to cast on one of these beauties? Have you previously knitted one of her patterns? If so, tell us about it. If not, you can just drool over them with the rest of us.

Pattern Radar: Fusion Knitting

I am a real fan of fusion cooking.  It’s about taking the best of two or more traditional cuisines and combining them into a single dish.  As you may know, I have become very interested in Fairisle knitting, and indeed in stranded knitting techniques in general.  I have spent many hours pouring over patterns and projects and admiring the use of colour and pattern and technique.  One of the things that has been catching my eye lately, however, is what I am going to call Fusion Knitting – garments that are created by combining traditional knitting styles and techniques.

Here is an example:

© Jennifer Beale

This design, called Heart’s Content, is by the Canadian designer Jennifer Beale. She has only released eight patterns so far (on Ravelry here), but each combines different knitting styles in interesting ways.  Heart’s Content is a basic top-down, in-the-round, knitted tee, in which the lace pattern at the top and shoulders transitions to stranded knitting for the body of the garment.  Not only is it pretty and imminently wearable but it has an advantage for someone who is new to stranded knitting: no steeks!

Another example of her work is the design called Joe Batt’s Arm:

© Jennifer Beale

I really love her poetic description of this garment (from the Ravelry pattern page):

Joe Batt’s Arm is a structured, seamed cable knit with textured fair isle banding. The fair isle bands border the eyelet cables the same way that a bright blue night encloses the Fogo Island Inn with all of its light on. At the same time, the raglan shoulders lend a sporty quality to the pullover.

I dare you to read that sentence and not to want to search for the Fogo Island Inn.  I already did and I want to go there RIGHT THIS MINUTE!  Check out the photo here.  I love that she mentions her inspiration for this, as it really clicks once you’ve seen it.  This is a very intriguing and striking garment, and I imagine it would be both fun and challenging to knit.

Another knitter who is exploring the fusion of different knitting styles is the Japanese designer Junko Okamoto.  Here is her design, Astrid:

© Junko Okamoto

I love this pullover which combines a beautiful muted stranded pattern with cabled sleeves.  Like Heart’s Content above, this is an example of a stranded garment that doesn’t need steeking.  Astrid also has a loose, billowy shape – a new profile that is in counterpoint to the fitted garments of recent years, and has been championed by a crop of new (to me at least) Japanese designers of handknitting patterns.  It is a one-size-fits-all garment designed to be voluminous.  (I am eagerly awaiting projects of this pattern on knitters of various sizes so I can evaluate its drape and fit.)

I’m not sure whether to call it fusion knitting as such, but I am also really caught up by Junko’s Bouquet Sweater and Bouquet Scarf, both shown in the photo below:

© Junko Okamoto

If you look really carefully at the photos (go check out the Ravelry project pages), you can see the very interesting mix of techniques, including stranding the yarn on both the wrong and on the right side to create this ethereal, three-dimensional patterning that looks like moss on the forest floor.

I am totally captivated by these examples of Fusion Knitting and I would love to find other designers also pushing the boundaries and doing interesting juxtapositions of traditional styles and techniques.  If you know of any, please mention them in the comments!