Pattern adjustments; or, the devil is in the details

I’ve been thinking a lot lately about a pullover pattern by Sari Nordlund, called Onnen:

© Sari Nordlund

It checks a number of boxes for me at the moment – easy to knit, worsted-weight yarn, raglan, interesting but not too complicated cables, vertical pattern, comfortable, comforting, wearable. After looking through literally thousands of patterns over a period of many weeks, I found that I kept coming back to this one. I even have the yarn at hand to knit this with.

So, I bought the pattern and spent some time looking it over, and immediately hit a conceptual snag. The gauge is listed as follows (this is available right on the pattern page on Ravelry, so I’m not giving anything away):

Gauge:
19 sts and 25 rounds = 10 cm over stockinette stitch on 4.5 mm / US 7 needles, in a round, after blocking.
25 sts and 27 rounds = 10 cm over cabled pattern on 4.5 mm / US 7 needles, in a round, after blocking. Measurement taken approximately over round 19.

So far so good. Looking at the pattern, however, I became confused. The pullover is knitted bottom-up in-the-round. For the size L (47″), it asks that you cast on 244 stitches. Markers are added to divide the front and the back, which is divided evenly so that both back and front have 122 stitches. However, the back is knitted entirely in stockinette stitch which has a gauge of 19 stitches to 4in/10cm, and the front is composed of a central block of 68 stitches in cable pattern knitted at a gauge of 25 stitches to 4in/10cm, plus 54 stitches (27 either side) knitted in stockinette at a 19 stitch gauge. I have to admit that this sets up warning bells for me.

I did some math. It turns out that if you are hitting the recommended gauges, for the size L, the back will measure 25.68″ and the front will measure 22.24″. (It goes like this: 19 stitches per 10cm/4″ equals 1.9 stitches/cm or 4.75 stitches/inch. 25 stitches per 10cm/4″ equals 2.5 stitches/cm or 6.25 stitches/inch. To continue in inches, the back will thus be 122 stitches at 4.75 per inch, or 25.68″. The front will be 54 stitches at 4.75 stitches/inch (11.36″) PLUS 68 stitches at 6.25 stitches/inch (10.88″) which equals 22.24″. Yikes! It’s worse than I imagined.

(At this point, I asked Doug to read this, and I did his head in. “What’s the problem?”, he asked. “The circumference works out right and its knitted in the round.” The problem is with the placement of the markers, and thus the side seams, and thus the placement of the sleeves and raglan shapings. If the side seams are placed so that both back and front have an equal number of stitches, then the sleeves will be in the wrong place, and the front of the sweater will be bunched over the chest, while the back of the sweater will be too wide.)

Why would you knit a sweater and place the raglan sleeve shapings unevenly skewed towards the front, so that the front measures significantly less than the back? By this time I thought maybe I was over-thinking things and I wrote to the designer (on Ravelry, which perhaps she doesn’t monitor) and I never heard back.

I thought about forgetting the pattern altogether, and spent a few more weeks searching around for something else to knit, but in fact, I like this pullover. (I have quite a few of Nordlund’s newer patterns on my favourites list.) I do think the pattern photos look just a bit off around the raglan shapings, but of course that makes sense if they are fundamentally in the wrong place. So, being overly fussy, I checked every single photo of this sweater which exists on Ravelry. There are currently 98 of them. Of those 98, only 2 photos show the back of the sweater being worn on an actual person (there are a number of photos of the back of the sweater, while it is hanging on a hanger). Of those two, one of them is obscured by a bunch of long hair and a slightly angled shot, and the other looks, frankly, much too wide across the back.

I then spent a long time re-calculating the widths of back and front as I moved the markers towards the back one stitch at a time, and discovered that if I moved the markers back 4 stitches on each side, so that the overall stitch count is the same, but the back has 16 fewer stitches than the front, then the finished pullover measurements should be roughly equal for the front and back.

I won’t go into the details too much here, but I also freaked out about the fact that the ribbing was even across the bottom of the sweater, even though the central cabled portion of the sweater had a much tighter gauge. For those of you interested in the nitty gritty details, I ended up casting on 240 stitches for the ribbing, and then increasing 4 stitches evenly across the cabled block of stitches at the front, while at the same time, placing the markers so that there are 114 stitches on the back and 130 stitches on the front.

Am I being unduly obsessive? Will this work out in the end? Only time will tell.

Please note: Language in post updated slightly, with thanks to Sarah; 16/01/22.

The cost of knitting has just gone up

I just saw a report of this on the news, and it cracked me up. A man received a fine for 90£ for allegedly driving in a bus lane, 120 miles from his home. The photographic evidence shows a woman walking in the bus lane while wearing a sweatshirt that says “KNITTER”. The traffic computers sent an automated ticket to a man with the license plate “KN19TER”.

Here is a link to the news article, but I must say the local TV news report was better. They tried to interview the man who had received the ticket, and he and his wife couldn’t stop giggling. A bit of knitting humour to lift up your day.

Confused

This morning, Doug showed me an article on men’s fashion from the Financial Times. It’s called “The Family Man; A celebration of ageless style”. I think that there is a paywall on FT, so I don’t have a direct link to the article, but will show one photo here. The article showcases photos of intergenerational style, including many lovely and sometimes eye-wateringly expensive clothes modelled by many ages of boys and men. There is one photo which I keep coming back to, because it leaves me completely confused. I think this photo is lovely, and the sweater is luscious, but… is it one sweater or two? What is the baby wearing? Is there a kangaroo pouch? Look at it carefully and see if you can see why I’m confused.

© James Harvey-Kelly; Photography by James Harvey-Kelly. Styling by Julian Ganio
 SEPTEMBER 15 2021; Financial Times

Change of scene: Helsinki

I normally do a lot of travel for my job, but that stopped in March 2020 due to Covid. With restrictions easing, I just made my first business trip in almost 20 months – to Helsinki. Since I was teaching there on a Friday, Doug flew in with me and we spent the weekend. It was fun and also kind of weird to be travelling again. There were tons of forms to fill in, and tests to take, and lots of new procedures involved in travelling in a Covid world, which we had to get our heads around, but it was great to get away.

Helsinki is lovely. Many of the buildings reminded us of Potsdam, where we lived for a decade shortly after reunification, but Helsinki is on the water, and the miles of harbour give it a unique feel. There are lots of boats, and fish, and marketplaces; sometimes all three in one:

There are boats sailing on the water:

There are interesting architectural shapes:

This bird has a prime spot:

This being Finland, there are knitting shops! This is Snurre:

This is me shopping in Snurre:

It is a fantastic shop, with two rooms packed full of gorgeous yarn and other knitting stuff:

A knitter, after visiting Snurre, might find herself with a small bag of goodies to take home:

A knitter, in fact, may find herself sitting by the water and knitting while enjoying the sights of the busy harbour:

The city seems to have negotiated Covid fairly well, and it felt safe. Even these guys were wearing masks:

It is a lovely place for tourists to wander while wearing dapper hand-knitted waistcoats:

Or for tourists to look relaxed and happy while wearing lovely hand-knitted tops:

It’s amazing what a short change of scene can do for your mental health!

10 years of blogging

Ten years ago today, I published my very first post on this blog. A lot of things happen in ten years – I have grown and changed in ways I never would have imagined, and the world around me is almost unrecognisable at times – and yet this blog is still here with me. I still sit down, nearly every weekend, and pour some thoughts onto the (virtual) page. I spend countless hours planning, plotting, photographing, styling, writing, editing, posing, and yes, most of all, knitting.

When I began, I worried that I would not have anything to say. This post, this one right here, is my 550th post. At times, I have been brimming with creativity and new ideas, and projects are jumping up and down in my brain and off my needles. Other times, I have been so busy that knitting and blogging is a fought-for luxury in my week. Sometimes, the mojo is gone and I creak along waiting for it to return. Throughout it all, this blog has been here, providing a bit of sanity and creativity and fun; it is both my platform and my retreat.

I went back today to look at that first post, and it makes me laugh. My very first sentence, on the very first post says: “Last weekend,  I finally managed to block my Stripe Study Shawl.” I started as if I was in the middle of a conversation! So funny! I remember arguing with my family that I didn’t want to start by saying “Hi. I’m Kelly. This is my blog.” So I just started as I meant to go on. I never meant it to go on for ten years.

This blog is me – my thoughts, my knitting, my writing – but it is also in many ways a family affair. My daughter Emma spent a few years wearing me down, convincing me to start a knitting blog. Doug and Emma and Leah and I spent an entire day trying to come up with a name. We must have tried out hundreds before coming up with Knitigating Circumstances. I still think that the name is one of the best things about the blog; I smile every time I see it. (Although every time I have to write it, I wish I had picked something really short and sweet.)

For the first two years, this blog was a joint effort between Emma and myself, with a huge amount of work being put in behind the scenes by Emma, who did all of the photography and style editing, and technical editing, and proof reading, as well as being a sounding board and originator of ideas. I’ve written every post but one, which was written by Emma and is still one of my favourites. (I have a funny story to tell about that post. It is called “Move over Mom!”, as Emma was pushing me aside to write a post. We originally thought that she would write a series of occasional posts and wanted a name to tag her posts. We tagged it “Emma butts in!” and created a new column on the blog menu for these posts. A few weeks later, I noticed that I was getting a lot of referrals from, shall we say, dodgy-looking search terms. A little research and we discovered that there was a porn star whose first name was Emma and last name was Butts. We quietly removed the tags, and eventually the search engines gave up.) When Emma moved to Canada, it became harder and harder for her to participate in the every day running of the blog, and I learned to do more of it myself, although I still bug her at least once a week about blog-related things. I never would have done this without her. I have also knitted her lots of fabulous things; many patterns which I wouldn’t make for myself but which look smashing on her.

Leah has also proof-read countless posts, posed for innumerable photos, and has served as a muse for some of my more interesting projects over the years (like the Tolkien pillow, or the sweater I knitted her based on Anglo-Saxon gold and garnet cloisonné jewellery, finished project here). In the meantime, Doug has taken over nearly all of the photography for the blog, as well as reading most every post before I hit the publish button. Doug also provides inspiration for some of my favourite posts, which detail funny conversations between us. I often hear knitters complain that they can’t get their spouse to take a project photo for them. I can ask Doug to take a photo of a new skein of yarn, and he will come back with a hundred of them, all of them interesting (and in focus).

When I started this blog, I had just turned 50. I had two teenagers at home. I worked a 9-5 job as a manager of a research facility (having put my first academic teaching job – as a linguist – to rest when the girls were born). Every week, I ferried the girls, and a carful of instruments, to school, saxophone lessons, piano lessons, cello lessons, band practice, orchestra practice. I had my knitting with me everywhere and got tons done. Since then, the girls left home, I went back to school (for an MBA), took up a second academic career in a second academic discipline, travelled heavily both for my job and for pleasure, and still the blog kept going.

This is a time of transitions and milestones for me. In the past ten weeks, I have turned 60, had my 30th wedding anniversary, and been promoted (I am now an Associate Professor of Leadership – who would have imagined such a thing 10 years ago?). And today, I celebrate my 10th anniversary as a blogger.

Part of the joy of this blog is that I have you along for the ride. To those of you who keep coming back and reading, who put comments here and send me messages on Ravelry, who get inspired and inspire me, and who share my love of knitting and community, thank you.