My year in Knits – 2012

Today is the last day of the year, so in keeping with last year, this post will document the year in knits.  I knit 6 sweaters, two cowls, two hats and three pairs of fingerless mitts this year; two of which I have somehow failed to document on the blog, but will remedy that today.  I haven’t managed quite as much knitting this year as last, perhaps because I now spend considerable time on this blog that might have been spent knitting (but more likely as a result of a big reading spree the last few months).

I knit the hats in the fall to send to my friend Maria who has been undergoing chemotherapy for breast cancer.  These were the Zelda Cloche by Alexis Winslow:

IMG_5225and the Odessa Hat, by Grumperina:

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(Please note that for convenience sake – my convenience that is – I am using the Ravelry links for the patterns in this post.)

In August, I knit a cowl for my sister-in-law Vivian.  It is knit in seed stitch with three shades of Kid Silk Haze held together.  I am told that she wears it often.  It is light as a cloud, and soft and fluffy.  I decided to make a second one, exactly the same, for Emma as a Christmas gift.  I didn’t use a pattern for this; I used big needles, three strands of Kidsilk Haze, cast on an odd number of stitches (I used 149 stitches for Emma’s cowl), and then knit until it felt long enough (about 11″-12″).  So, this cowl counts as two:

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I made the cowl with the leftover yarn from Emma’s Smoulder sweater, which I blogged about here (it’s a great sweater, check it out).  I bought a bag of Kidsilk Haze (10 balls) on sale at the end of the year a few years ago; I think I paid about £20 for the bag.  With it, I made Emma’s Smoulder sweater and both cowls.  That was definitely one of my better yarn bargains!

The first sweater of the year was by far my favorite; I love everything about it!  This is the Brick pullover, designed by Hanne Falkenberg, that I knit for Doug:

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Next up, I knit the Backward Cabled Pullover for Leah.  This sweater, designed by Wendy Bernard, is called that because the scoop is supposed to be in the back; I knit the Backward Cabled sweater backward, thus having the scoop forward!  I knit it in Madelinetosh Pashmina in the luscious colour Flashdance.  Leah wears it all the time:

IMG_2919I then made three sweaters for myself.  First was the cool and breezy summer sweater, Laresca, designed by Corrina Ferguson:

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I then knit two cardigans, both designed by Carol Feller.  The absolutely marvelous Killybegs, which I wear constantly:

IMG_4911And then the very classy Ravi, which I knit as part of Carol’s Ravi knit-along this summer (with 800 plus other knitters):

IMG_5452I love these both so much.  And having just seen Carol’s new design for Brooklyn Tweed, I have to say that there is another Carol Feller design in my future (stay tuned this spring).

The last sweater of the year, which I just finished a few weeks ago, is the pullover I call Medieval Gems, that I designed for my daughter Leah (based on patterns by Marnie MacLean and Lauren Osborne; see this post for details).

IMG_5714 Perhaps some of you have noticed that there were no sweaters for Emma this year?  Oh dear!  How could this have happened?  But, never fear dear readers, my needles have been smoking all week as I race away on a beautiful sweater for Emma; you will have to stay tuned for details in the New Year.

Last, but not least, I knit three pairs of fingerless mitts this year.  The first pair I knit in August for Emma, to match her Carnaby skirt. These are the Optimistic Mitts, by Devin Joesting:

IMG_5757This is a really great pattern, and it gives you an excuse to use up any cool buttons you have (or, even better, go button shopping)!  I wrote a post about these in September (and about various trials and tribulations I encountered while knitting them), but I never published it because I waited in vain for a photo of Emma wearing them with the skirt.  (Emma’s excuse is that she doesn’t have a camera at university and that she won’t allow an inferior phone photo on the blog.)  Perhaps just for fun, I’ll post it up next month – sans photos.

IMG_5760I knit the Nalu Mitts by Leila Raabe for Leah:

IMG_5420and the Green Thumb Mitts by Diana Foss for me:

IMG_5502Today, on this warm, rainy last day of December 2012, we are all here at home, healthy and happy.  We braved the rain to have Doug snap some photos of the three of us – Emma, Leah, and me, Kelly –  in our knitted fingerless mitts.

IMG_5766Happy New Year to you all!

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Mom points

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It’s been over two weeks since I last published a post.  Is this because I won the lottery and have been Island-shopping in the Carribean?  No, I am afraid the truth is not so interesting (or profitable).  I was busy – with work (boo!) and with Christmas preparations (yay!).  I was experiencing laptop difficulties (boo!) and distracted by Emma coming home (yay!).  The days are short and full of rain (boo!) so there have been no photo opportunities, and I have been perhaps a bit overindulgent with holiday food and wine (yay!) leading to spelling difficulties.  In regards to the last, I have eaten so many New Orleans pralines, I may need to avoid clothes with buttons for weeks.  (Make them!  The recipe is in Joy of Cooking.  You will not be sorry!)

We are enjoying a lovely, peaceful Christmas.  Emma arrived, very jet-lagged, on Friday afternoon.  On Sunday, we spent the day in London which was virtually empty.  Does everyone in London leave to spend Christmas on the coast perhaps, or are Londoners sensibly ensconsed inside for the week, leaving London to outsiders?  We made the all important treks to Monmouth Coffee to stock up on espresso beans, and to Neal’s Yard Dairy to buy a box of cheese (no trip to London should miss Neal’s Yard).  We went to the British Museum late in the day and practically had the place to ourselves (at least by British Museum standards).  I have never before been able to gaze at the Rosetta Stone without filtering it through a stream of tourists.  Doug took photos of entire galleries filled with fabulous antiquities and no people.  Lovely!  We walked across the bridge to South Bank and looked at the gorgeous views of London at night, all misty with rain and blue and purple lights from the Christmas decorations.

On Christmas Eve, the girls put up and decorated the tree (a little late this year) and we baked lots of Christmas cookies.  In addition to the New Orleans pralines, and rolled sugar cookies cut in Christmas shapes and decorated with colored sugar, we always make lots of German Christmas deliacies.  This year, it was Pfeffernüsse – made with tons of spices and rum and candied orange peel, they get better every day – and Kipferln – delicate and almondy and light and flaky.  And, of course, we made pumpkin pies.  We had some old friends join us for a traditional Christmas Eve salmon dinner (my husband is from Vancouver thus making salmon the default celebratory food).  We ended Christmas Eve the way we always do, by listening to Dylan Thomas read A Child’s Christmas in Wales.  I can’t imagine Christmas without it.  The four of us have it memorized of course and all recite whole stretches of it under our breath.  It is the most beautiful poem, and Dylan Thomas reads it so beautifully.  I never think the English language quite so magical as I do when listening to Dylan Thomas.

Yes, yes, I know this is a knitting blog; be patient – there will be knitting momentarily.  Christmas Day and Boxing Day have been spent opening gifts, listening to music, reading books, playing games (the girls beat us twice in a row at Articulate), lots of knitting, sleeping (Emma, who is not only jet-lagged but exhausted from a busy first semester of university, fell asleep at noon on Christmas day and only woke up when we dragged her out of bed for dinner in the evening), cooking, eating and being lazy.  I did, however, manage amidst all of this generalized laziness to get Emma and Leah to jump up during a 5-minute break in the rain, and take sweater photos in the garden, so I could write this post.

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Some of you may remember that I was busy knitting a medieval-inspired sweater for Leah, which I blogged about here.  I designed this sweater, with Leah’s input, by combining bits and pieces of a couple of patterns I purchased, with lots of my own math and trial and error.  I was using the basic shape from the pattern Astoria by Marnie MacLean and the fair isle pattern from the mitten design Frank by Lauren Osborne.  Though I mostly followed the Astoria pattern, I ended up redoing most of the calculations.

Leah wanted to wear this sweater for her eighteenth birthday, which was two weeks ago Friday.  Since it needed to be wet blocked, this meant that it had to be finished, washed and blocked before I went to sleep on the preceding Wednesday evening.  That day, I had a very long day at work and didn’t get home until nearly 9pm.  I ate dinner, and then started to knit, not finishing with the knitting until well after midnight.  Then, I had to end off all of the ends, soak and wet block it.  Since I was worried about it not drying on time, I used up six towels getting as much water out as possible.  (I put a towel on the kitchen floor, spread the wet sweater on top very carefully so as not to stretch it anywhere, put another towel on top, and then walk on it, barefoot, squeezing out the water with my feet until the towels are soaked.  Then I repeat with fresh towels.) Picture me, at 2am, after a very, very long day, treading with bare feet on layers of wet towels and sweater in my kitchen.  I had visions of the I Love Lucy episode where she is in the wine vat with her bare feet, stomping on grapes.  Then, while in an I Love Lucy and exhaustion-tinged state of mild hysteria, I carefully blocked it on the living room rug.  I had two thoughts going through my head.  One, I am too old for this.  Two, I better be earning lots of Mom Points for this.

The sweater was finished on time and Leah wore it for her 18th birthday.  The idea behind the design is great, and in certain lights and certain angles after carefully pulling it into configuration, it looks pretty good:

IMG_5714However, it must be honestly said that this is not my best effort.  If fails in some very obvious ways on the fit front.  I can see what needs to be fixed, and have spent lots of time trying to visualize how I can fix it without actually ripping it out and redoing it from scratch.  For example, here is a photo of the back after it has been carefully pulled into shape:

IMG_5728And here is a photo of the back as it looks normally, after a few minutes of wear:

IMG_5731I have to admit that this drives me crazy.  Clearly, the fair isle portion of the pattern had a tighter gauge than the stockinette portion, possible caused by my lack of experience with knitting fair isle.  What I should have done here is to have decreased regularly, every fifth stitch or so, all of the way around on the row under the yellow pattern (it was knit top-down); that would have fixed the buckling.  Instead, I tried to fix it by making more decreases.  What was I thinking?  So, part of me is busy imagining that I could just rip out the bottom portion of the body of the sweater, up to the bottom of the patterned panel, and then re-knit the body and waist.  That would definitely fix the buckle you see in the above photo, but the fact is that there are a number of other fit issues: the sweeping neckline is way too sweeping (imagine it without the turtleneck underneath), the arms don’t fit right (again, this is due to the gauge difference in the stockinette versus fair isle), the patterned panel should be an inch higher on the front and two inches higher at the back (short rows, perhaps?).  I don’t think I will really be happy with this one unless I rip it all out and start again.

On the other hand, Leah has worn it at least 10 times in the last two weeks. She clearly  likes it.  And when the sun hits it (sun? what is this thing, sun?) the colours are fantastic. Perhaps I should chalk it up to a learning experience and stop being such a perfectionist?  Perhaps I should work on making my next sweater fit better instead of knitting this one yet again?

I have other finished projects to report but will leave that to my next post.  In the meantime, I wish all of my readers a peaceful holiday.

The home stretch

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My plan for today was to post photos of the completed Medieval Gems sweater for Leah – finished, blocked, and modelled.  I wrote about the design process for this pullover here; it is based on Anglo-Saxon jewellery for my medieval-history obsessed daughter.

Unfortunately, my fingers are behind target.  As you can see, I am almost done knitting, in the home stretch in fact:

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Leah wants to wear it on Friday (her 18th birthday) so I better get a move on. Especially since it most definitely needs to be wet blocked.  With any luck, I can bring you modelled shots next weekend.

It is very windy here today (and cold!) so it was hard to take these photos.  Every time I laid the sweater out and stepped out of the way, the wind would grab ahold of it:

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and blow it away:

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Doug and Leah are busy baking Christmas cookies, and I plan to sit by the fire, listen to the wind blowing outside, and hopefully finish knitting this sweater.

Too many beautiful patterns to choose from

Sometime last winter I went into London shopping with the aim of buying some yarn to knit a sweater for me.  I went armed with a list of sweaters I was interested in and their various yarn requirements.  I also went with Emma, which means that I left the shop without any yarn for me, but with a pile of absolutely luscious Madelinetosh DK for Emma:

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Ever since then, we have been trying to pick a suitable sweater to knit with this yarn.  Not a week goes by when I don’t email Emma with a link to a sweater pattern and the query “How about this one?”  Sometimes, I think we are close to making a decision.  But somehow, we never seem to find the one.  Since the end of the year is upon us, I have been looking back over the year’s knitting and have discovered that I have not knit a single sweater for Emma all year (egads!).  Plus, Emma is flying home for Christmas and will only be here for two weeks before she must fly back for the start of term.  This means we have to decide now!  I want to be swatched and ready to go when she gets here.

So, what are our criteria?

  1. The sweater has to be right for this weight yarn (DK) and I must have enough of it (I have 1030 metres).
  2. It has to meet Emma’s strict style criteria.
  3. Because the yarn is slightly variegated, a simple, not-too-busy sweater will show off the yarn best.
  4. It has to be something I want to knit (after all, I knit because it is fun; if it’s not fun, I don’t want to knit it).

Every week, our options change, but I thought I would show you some of the ones I am considering at the moment.  (Emma, are you reading this?)

First, there is Sotherton.  This was the first sweater that Emma picked out for the yarn, many months ago, but we have been wavering about it ever since.

sotherton

Sotherton is designed by Kathleen Dames, and is in the Summer 2012 edition of Jane Austin Knits by Interweave Press.  I don’t really know why I have been wavering about it.  Most of the time I think it is just beautiful.   Part of the problem has to do with the reverse stockinette, which of course forms the background to the cables.  I am not convinced that reverse stockinette is the best canvas for this yarn.  Part of it has to do with the shaping – this is the kind of sweater that must be fitted exactly right; if you screw up anywhere in the shaping, it will show and it won’t look good.  Emma and Leah very kindly point out that I am good at this kind of sweater fitting, but it also means that I would have to knit it up very fast as fitting is much easier when you can fit it directly to the recipient.

Another one I really like is Low Tide Ripples, designed by Suvi Simola, for Twist Collective.

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This one takes a very basic shape and adds some pretty features.  I think the cuffs are cute and distinctive, the zigzags show up nicely on the stockinette background, and I like the shoulder shapings.  This pullover is designed to be a little roomier, with a comfortable shape that makes it great with jeans.   Nonetheless, it is a very grownup and elegant version of a simple crew neck pullover.

One of the things that Emma has been mentioning frequently these days, is that she is cold.  It rains all the time in Vancouver, and the winters are dark and grey and gloomy and wet.  Emma wants some warm, cozy clothes.  That makes me think maybe the best use of this yarn is as a cardigan, rather than a pullover.  For cardigans, I think my top candidate at the moment is Dark and Stormy, designed by Thea Colman of Baby Cocktails.  Here is a photo of the back:

dark and stormy 1

and here is a photo of the front:

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I like everything about this design.  If Emma doesn’t want it, I will definitely make it for myself sometime down the line.  It looks like the type of cardigan which you could live in.  I particularly like the shawl collar.

Another one on my list is the Wrapped pullover, designed by atelier alfa:

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I think this is ultra cool.  It is different, it is fun, it has attitude.  This is another one I could see making for myself.  I am not sure how it would look with a variegated wool, however; the pattern is very strong, and should stay that way.  You want the cables to make a statement; a variegated wool will make it stand out less.

Just this week, as I was putting together this post, Ruth Garcia-Alcantud of Rock and Purl, published a new sweater design, Echoes of Winter:

echoes of winter

I met Ruth at Knit Nation in 2010, when we both took a design course taught by Shirley Paden.  At the time, Ruth was hoping to become a sweater designer.  She now has many designs published in some great places.  For some reason, Echoes of Winter reminded me of Emma.  It could be because it’s very fitted, and Emma can really rock this look.  I also think it would look great in this yarn.  I do think that if I were to make this one, however, I would shorten it by an inch or two.

The Dragonflies Jumper, designed by Joji Locatelli, is another good one.

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I would definitely make it as a turtleneck, however.  This jumper has a very pretty cable pattern, that does indeed look like dragonflies, and a nice simple shape.  There are many lovely versions of it popping up on Ravelry.  I think it would be warm and cozy.  I would need to swatch the dragonfly pattern first and make sure it popped enough in this yarn, but I think it’s a nice simple sweater with some flair.

Hannah Fettig has designed so many great, classic sweaters; a number of them were in competition for a place on this list.  I am leaning towards the Lapis Yoke sweater, from the Fall 2010 edition of Knitscene:

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I think this is a really classic shape done really well.  If you are on Ravelry and you want to see what inspired me to put this on my list, go check out FeyaPL‘s version of this.  It is made with Madelinetosh DK and is absolutely gorgeous.

Another option is the Isis Tailcoat:

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This is designed by Keri-Helene Rane for Purl Alpaca Designs.  This is designed for and knit with alpaca, which gives it a nice rustic look, but done in the Madtosh DK, I think it would be very chic and sophisticated.   It doesn’t look as toasty warm as some of the other designs; but it has a nice shape to it.

Last, but not least, is the Jewel Lake pullover:

5816113452_930c29def8_zI really love this one and it has been in my queue for a long time, targeted for Emma.  (It is so clearly an Emma sweater!)  The designer is Kristen Hanley Cardozo from the Knitting kninja.   This one is designed for worsted weight, not DK weight, so would take a bit of mathematical manipulating; then again, math is what keeps a knitter’s brain young!  This sweater is so beautiful (and I love the photo).  Imagine that you could change the ribbon according to your mood: black velvet, red lace, etc.  The only drawback (besides the math) would again be the warmth factor; with it’s bare neck and 3/4 sleeves it’s not exactly toasty.  Remember, Emma is cold over there in Vancouver.

I could continue to add other patterns for hours, but I think I’ll stop now.  What a terrible problem to have, don’t you think?  Absolutely gorgeous yarn sitting around, and too many beautiful pattern to choose from.  Now all I need is for Emma to make up her mind!

Sky at Night

bazinga – 1. A catchy phrase to accompany your clever pranks. As popularized by Sheldon Cooper (The Big Bang Theory).  2. A short post highlighting something that Emma and Kelly think is freaking fabulous.

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This is the Celestarium Shawl, designed by Audry Nicklin.  (Photos copyright by Jane Heller.)  It is in the latest issue of Twist Collective, a really fabulous online knitting magazine.  When I first saw it, I thought “OK, it’s a pretty shawl,” but as shawls don’t usually capture my attention so much, I flipped right by it.  But I came back to it because it is pretty; I like the round shape, I like the drape, I like the use of beads and eyelets.  I think the yarn is lovely – it is Blue Moon Fiber Arts Seduction in the colour Haida.

But then, I read the description, and, well, it had me:

“Celestarium is an accurate view of the night sky from the North Pole in the form of a pi shawl. Eyelets and beads are used to represent the stars. The center bead represents Polaris.”  [from the Ravelry project page]

This is so cool.  I sent the link to Emma and she agreed – totally cool.  Emma spent part of the summer studying early scientific treatises on the stars for her summer internship, became enthused, and has been studying astronomy at UBC this fall.  We are both geeky enough to think this is an amazing idea for a pattern.

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Doesn’t that just make your heart stop?  Absolutely freaking fabulous.

Reflections on Thanksgiving, hurricanes, the flu, antique knitting patterns and the waistcoat-that’s-not-meant-to-be

This has been a rather jumbled few weeks chez Knitigating Circumstances.  I have been felled with the flu.  It is one of those viruses of the cycling variety which knocks you over for a day and then tricks you into thinking you are on the mend before once again knocking you over.  This has been going on for some time.  Instead of spending my sick time knitting like a maniac, I have spent it propped up in bed reading.  Thus, I have done a lot of reading the past two weeks but not so much knitting (or answering comments to the blog; apologies to my readers).

I did, on one of the days in which I believed I was on the mend, make it in to London, to Loop, to attend an afternoon’s class with Franklin Habit.  Franklin has a lovely and very funny blog, writes a column for Knitty magazine, teaches knitting classes all over the world, and knits beautiful things for his lucky niece Abigail.  I was fortunate to take a class with Franklin at Knit Nation last year, which was about different traditions in lace-making.  I have attended classes with great instructors, mediocre instructors and get-me-out-of-here instructors; Franklin is firmly ensconsed in the former category.  This class was about how to interpret and use knitting patterns from the late 19th century.  This period, when knitting patterns were first being published, was before the introduction of standardized terms, needle sizes, sizing conventions, abbreviations, etc, so the patterns from this period are unique and quirky and often need deciphering.

Franklin brought along many of the pieces he has reconstructed from old patterns and written about in his Knitty column, including the fabulous Pineapple bag and Eleanor Roosevelt’s mittens.  It was great to see and handle these pieces, and I really enjoyed the class.  (One of the other people attending the class, Jennie, posted about it on her blog here; you can see that I am in one of the photos wearing my Killybegs cardigan.  She also has a nice photo of the Pineapple bag, and a great beaded coin jug.)  If you are ever in London, be sure to stop by Loop, they have great yarn, a really good selection of knitting books, sofas and chairs you can curl up and knit on (I’ve done this many times and they never kick me out) and an endless stream of nice people coming through the doors.

This week, unfortunately coinciding with my being sick, was also Thanksgiving.  This is a big holiday in my house.  I haven’t lived in the US for over 20 years, but we always, wherever we are in the world, have a big Thanksgiving dinner and invite many people from many cultures and nationalities.  My daughter Emma is away at university, and we just experienced the first Emma-free Thanksgiving in 19 years.  Despite the fact that I take great joy in Emma growing up and spreading her wings, it was very sad to look around the Thanksgiving table and not have her here.  (She was also gravely missed in the gravy-making portion of the evening- get it – Emma’s gravy is divine.  This year the gravy turned out awful.  Really awful.  Theo, a good friend who has been to many of our Thanksgiving feasts, was sitting next to me and after tasting the gravy he whispered to me “Let’s hope that Emma is back next year!”)

Thanksgiving is also a time for reflection.  It has been cold and wet here in the UK as the winter sets in, and this has made me think of all of those in the New York area who were affected by Hurricane Sandy, many of whom have lost their homes and belongings.  I lived in this area for more than 20 years, in various homes in New Jersey, Long Island, Manhattan and Brooklyn, so it was with sadness and incredulity that I watched the path of destruction on the news.  My sister, Romi, has owned a garden and landscaping business on Eastern Long Island for more than 20 years.  She has been busy clearing rubble and distributing goods to affected areas since the hurricane swept through.  Romi has started a charitable organization called the Hamptons Hurricane Relief Fund, which you can find here; she says they especially need warm winter items like hats and mittens.   If you have a pile of warm wooly knitting on hand, please think of sending it to those who need it.  Also, don’t forget that Hurricane Sandy caused added misery to Haiti, a small country already reeling from natural disasters; there are many charitable organizations at work in Haiti who could use donations.

Thanksgiving also always leads me to reflect on the waistcoat-that’s-not-meant-to-be; but first, let me digress.  Doug is in charge of the Thanksgiving turkey.  He makes the best stuffing on earth.  I am allergic to gluten, so he makes his stuffing from corn bread, and adds tons of dried fruit and nuts – apricots, figs, prunes, cherries, macadamias, pistachios, pine nuts, pecans – as well as onions, celery, herbs, butter….  yum, yum.  It is absolutely mouth-watering.  Every year, when he is preparing the turkey, and the girls and I are acting as sous-chefs, he asks for the yarn and needle to truss the bird up with.  And here lies a knitterly story.

Seventeen years ago, when the kids were babies and we were living in Potsdam, in the former East Germany, Doug was stuffing the Thanksgiving turkey and we realized that we had no kitchen string to tie up the turkey.  “Hold on a minute,” I said, and ran to my knitting basket.  I grabbed a ball of cotton yarn and a darning needle and ran back to the kitchen, and Doug trussed up the turkey.  The yarn and needle ended up in the kitchen drawer instead of back in my knitting bag, and has been used every year since then to truss up the turkey.  Here is a photo of Doug, preparing the bird this year:

And here is a close-up in which you can see the little ball of yarn:

Every year when we truss the turkey, I think about the knitting project I stole that ball of yarn from.  It is destined to never be finished.  In 1992, Rowan published its 11th Book of Patterns and in it was the Cones Waistcoat by Kaffe Fassett.  I had never knit a Fair Isle pattern before and thought that this would be the perfect pattern to start with.  We were living in Australia at the time, and were untenured university lecturers with student loans to pay off (read: we had little money), so ordering an expensive knitting kit and shipping it to Australia was a luxury.  I eventually caved in and treated myself.  In 1994 when Emma was a baby and I was pregnant with Leah, Doug had to go into the hospital for surgery.  I had just received the knitting kit in the post.  I took it with me to the hospital, and while Doug was in surgery and in recovery afterwards, I alternately walked Emma around and cast on and started knitting the Cones Waistcoat.  I was not good at knitting Fair Isle, and the waistcoat was probably doomed from the start.

As I watched Doug truss the turkey a few days ago, once again having my yearly think about the waistcoat-that’s-not-meant-to-be, I realized that I had it tucked away in the bottom of a closet upstairs, and ran to get it and photograph it for the blog.

That’s as far as I got.  And it’s as far as it’s ever going to get.  I’m not even sure why I’ve kept it all these years.  I was kind of astonished when I pulled it out to discover how big it is; it’s definitely two sizes too big (at the very least) for me now.  I guess I have forgotten how breast feeding and pregnancy (in this case, both simultaneously) can change your shape.  You can see from the back that I didn’t really know what I was doing:

Hopefully, I am now a bit more skilled as a knitter because there are a lot of Fair Isle patterns out there that are calling my name.  This has been something of a mishmash of a post; reflections on Thanksgiving, hurricanes, the flu, antique knitting patterns, and the waistcoat-that’s-not-meant-to-be.  Good wishes to all of my readers.  I am now off to plop myself in bed with a good book, my knitting, an antique knitting pattern or two, and a piece of pumpkin pie, and reflect on my blessings.

Anatomy of a design

My daughter Leah is into medieval history in a big way.  For a long time we have been discussing designing a sweater based on medieval motifs.  Leah and I thought that we had come up with an interesting design for a bottom-up yoked pullover with some Anglo-Saxon text worked across the yoke.  We spent a long time discussing texts, colour schemes, yarn choices, etc.  We also discussed shaping and style.  We had picked out a nice, deep red for the body of the pullover, and planned to make the text in a brown wool on a parchment-coloured background in a circle around the yoke.

As an aside to this discussion, Leah asked me whether we could work a small pattern into the pullover, around the neck and sleeves, in gold and red.  She was inspired by Anglo-Saxon jewellery.

The above piece was buried with an Anglo-Saxon princess over 1300 years ago.  This photo, along with a brief description, is from the BBC, A History of the World – an online archive of objects from the British Museum, which you can find here.  Here is another example, the Canterbury Pendant, also Anglo-Saxon, circa the early 7th century.

This type of cloisonné work, using garnet and gold, was popular in the period.  The above photo, can be found, along with a description of this piece, on the webpages of the World Gold Council, here.  If you run a search for Anglo-Saxon jewellery, or for Early Middle Ages jewellery, you will find many such pieces.

Leah asked if we could try to recreate the look of this technique for a narrow colour band around the neckline and cuffs of the pullover.  We searched for some appropriate yarn.  I wanted to use Cascade 220 for this pullover, and we found what we thought would be the perfect colours, which we ordered from Get Knitted in Bristol (along with the brown and parchment colours for the text planned for the yoke).

As they didn’t have all colours I wanted in stock, I waited a few weeks for the delivery.  (They have very nice customer service, by the way.) In the meantime, I had these pictures of Anglo-Saxon jewellery fermenting in the back of my brain.  One day, while rooting around Ravelry (my favorite occupation), I came upon a pattern for a pair of mittens, called Frank, designed by Lauren Osborne.  The Ravelry link is here.

I don’t know why, but as soon as I saw these, they reminded me of the medieval jewels.  I reasoned that one repeat of the design, knit in gold and red, would have much of the same feel as the jewellery I was trying to replicate.  My yarn arrived, and one night, while Doug and Leah sat watching a movie, I cast on a swatch and knit one pattern repeat from the Frank mitten pattern.

Isn’t that great?  Leah and I both fell in love with it.  It wasn’t, however, appropriate to our original conceptions of the pullover design.  The  cloisonné pattern was intended to form a very narrow ring near the neckline, just to add a bit of colour and flair to the main design element, which was intended to incorporate text from a medieval manuscript. This pattern repeat is 25 rows long, and coupled with the width of the Cascade 220 (a worsted weight wool), the resulting pattern was too wide.

However, the more we looked at it, the more we loved it.  Leah and I decided to put aside the medieval manuscript idea for the moment, and knit a pullover based on this pattern repeat, with the inspiration of the Anglo-Saxon jewellery in our heads.  Now we had a lovely band of colourwork, the yarn, but no sweater design.  The original idea, for a yoked pullover, didn’t mesh with this swatch. (The pattern knit in this wool is about 4 inches wide.  I didn’t see how I could incorporate a 4 inch pattern into a yoke without having decreases as an integral part of the pattern.  Furthermore, I didn’t feel as if the yoke was the appropriate placement for this pattern.)  I was left with two options; one, to design a pullover from scratch to incorporate this pattern, or two, to find a pullover design which I liked, into which I could incorporate this band of colourwork.  Again, Ravelry came to the rescue.

I had a pullover in my queue on Ravelry, which had been there for a very long time, always with the intent to make it some day for Leah.  It is the Astoria pullover designed by Marnie MacLean (Ravelry link here).  Here is a photo:

I love the shape of this and, once I started thinking about it, I couldn’t stop imagining it in deep red, with the gold and red pattern from the Frank mittens in place of the colourwork band.  Interestingly, just as I cast on for this project, Blair – one of the readers of this blog, who is a fabulous knitter and great blogger, posted her Astoria pullover.  Her blog, Blairistan, is great; go read it.  She and I have such similar tastes in sweaters, it is uncanny.

So began Leah’s Medieval Gems pullover. There ensued a lot of math (some of which will be described in the next post) and some knitting, and some ripping, and some re-knitting (some of which will also be described in the next post).

This was followed by some general admiration and photo-taking:

and also much fitting and refitting:

Since these photos were taken last weekend, I have ripped out and reknit the neckline, and am now considering re-ripping and re-re-knitting the neckline.  I have also knit down to the waist, and am about to rip and re-knit down to the waist, adding more waist decreases.  Despite all of the fiddling, both Leah and I are thrilled with how this one is developing.  This has been the anatomy of a design; stay tuned for the rest of the story.

Warm Hands, Cold Feet

I have been working on a really great knitting project which I had hoped to blog about today.  But if truth be told, I have had a stressful week, and I have just had a lovely dinner (cooked by Doug) and have a glass of good wine by my side, so I will instead write a quick post about two recently finished projects, and save the new sweater for another day.

Those of you familiar with this blog will know that I am not big on knitting socks, gloves, hats, mittens, shawls and all of those other non-sweater items in the knitter’s repetoire.  I have an affinity for knitting sweaters.  But those other things are really good at keeping one’s hands, feet, head and neck warm.  In October, I finally got tired enough of cold hands to knit up some fingerless gloves.  My feet are still cold, and likely to remain that way.

First up, I knit a pair of very cute mitts for my daughter Leah, who is working a bit of a red vibe lately.

They look great with Leah’s coat (from Desigual).  This pattern is for the Nalu mitts, designed by Leila Raabe (the pattern is available for free on Ravelry).  I knit them with Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino, which is a blend of wool, microfibre and cashmere.  I used one ball of yarn to make the pair, and had just a few metres left over.   I would like them even better if they were an inch longer, but of course then you would need a second ball of yarn.

I knit these with a smaller needle than called for in the pattern.  I used a 3mm instead of a 3.25mm, and the slightly tighter gauge works well.  These mitts are fun to knit and fun to wear.  I think that Leah has worn them non-stop for the last three weeks.

Leila Raabe is one of the designers working with Jared Flood at Brooklyn Tweed  (if you don’t know Brooklyn Tweed it is well worth checking out – Jared is a great designer and photographer and has put together a really skilled and creative in-house design team).  Leila has had some lovely designs published in the last few years and has been on my radar for a while (mostly for her sweater patterns, of course).  So I was very happy to test drive one of her smaller patterns.  The design is very whimsical and eye-catching, and I highly recommend it.

For myself, I also chose to knit with Baby Cashmerino, but in a completely luscious grey.  This grey has to be seen to be appreciated; it is rich, gorgeous, luminous (and I just happened to have two balls of it sitting in my stash).  I chose to knit the pattern called Green Thumb, by Diana Foss.  You can find it on her blog, Mooseknits.  These mitts are knit in 2×2 rib, and are ambidextrous (both mitts are identical – there is no distinction between the left and right one).

The ribbing makes them very stretchy and warm, and the Baby Cashmerino is lovely and soft.  I also knit these with a 3mm needle, which is a size smaller than the pattern calls for.  Like the Nalu mitts, this pattern also calls for one ball of yarn, and so the mitts are short.  I made these longer, adding 8 extra rows of rib before the thumb gussets and including the optional five extra rows at the fingers.  This means I had to break into the second ball of yarn, but to me the extra length was worth it.  Given the tiny needles and the rib, there are a lot of stitches in these; each mitt has over 5000 stitches.  (Yes, I counted; I am a nerd that way.)  The thing that makes this pattern is the thumb gussets:

Aren’t they great?  I love this; such a simple, but innovative design.  Once you see them, it seems so obvious that a thumb gusset is shaped just like a leaf pattern.  I really think these are incredibly elegant.  I have worn them every day at work, thus keeping my hands warm while sitting at my desk typing.

Hopefully, next week I will bring you my totally cool new project; in the meantime, I am here with warm hands (and cold feet).

Hats for Chemo

Recently I’ve spent some time researching hats.  I am not much of a hat knitting type.  I did knit the beautiful Peerie Flooers hat, designed by the talented Kate Davies, which I documented on the blog here.  But other than that, I don’t think I’ve knit many hats.  I vaguely recall a few beanies knit flat in chunky yarn and then sewed together; these I made for various children, and were not pieces of knitted beauty.  But because I am drawn to knitting sweaters, I don’t think too much about knitting hats (or socks or scarves or mittens for that matter).

A few months ago, my friend Maria was diagnosed with breast cancer.  She was, in her own words, about to get the “full meal deal” – surgery, chemo and radio.  Maria lives on another continent.  If she lived close by, I would babysit for her daughter and bake treats.  As I live so far away, the only thing that I could think to do was to try to knit her some chemo hats.  I started looking at hat patterns and reading endless forums on the topic.  I found many of the hats that are designed specifically for people to wear during chemo are hats I really don’t like.  Obviously, there are special criteria for chemo hats – they should not be remotely itchy, they should provide good head coverage, etc.  But,  I think that when you are feeling crappy and have lost your hair, that is not the time for a non-stylish hat.  That is the time for a beautiful hat that lifts the spirits and feels good.

Once you start to search, you realize that knitters all over the world are knitting thousands of hats, many of them quite beautiful, to give to mothers, sisters, girl friends, even total strangers, undergoing chemo.  (Lots of chemo hats are knit for children and men as well.  Cancer is an equal opportunity disease.)  One of the more interesting observations I read online, in a Ravelry forum on chemo hats, was from a woman who had undergone chemo twice.  She said that it was important to realize that the recipient was going to wear clothes while wearing their hat.  It seems like a silly thing to say at first, but what she meant is that the hat should fit in with the recipient’s wardrobe.  If you are making this hat for a person who only wears black, do not make a pink hat with flowers, she said; try to make something that suits their style.

While knitting for Maria, I spent time thinking about her. I have a story to tell about her that readers of this blog may appreciate.  Many years ago, when my children were little, Maria spent a summer in Berlin,  doing a residency with a firm there.  She had arranged housing for the summer, but this option fell through shortly after she arrived.  We invited her to come and live with us for the summer.  It was a completely lovely summer and we had many great times together.  Maria always looked good.  I mean always.  Her clothes were so perfectly coordinated.  She had outfits for every occasion.  She always looked stylish.  Everything always matched.  She had arrived at our house with an ordinary suitcase.  How could she always look so good, for a whole summer, living out of a single suitcase?  When I asked her, Maria replied, “Oh, that’s because I make a list in advance of what I will pack.”  “Well,” I replied, “I make lists, too, but I can never seem to pull off a travel wardrobe like you have.”  And then she showed me her list.

Maria pulled out a sketch pad.  In it she had made a list of every single item of clothing, including shoes, jewelry, belts, etc that she packed for the trip.  Following the list were pages and pages of sketches, each sketch showing a complete outfit, with all accessories included, made up of different combinations of items from the list.  One sketch would show Maria in a flowered dress, with a little cardigan and pretty shoes and handbag.  The next would have a pair of trousers, a blouse, and matching shoes, belt and earrings.  I have never seen anything like it.  The list was composed of 2-3 dresses, a skirt or two, 3-4 pairs of trousers, t-shirts, blouses, 3 pairs of shoes, etc; each item was designed to match as many other items as possible.  She must have had a different outfit sketched for each day of the summer.  I have never forgotten it, and never lived up to it.  Every time I pack a bag I aim to be half as successful as Maria, and never manage it.

After a few days of searching hundreds of hat patterns, I hit on the first hat I would make.  It is the Zelda Cloche, designed by Alexis Winslow.  It was published in the Winter 2011 issue of Knitscene.  I picked this because I thought it had great style and panache.  Also, it was fairly close fitting and it came down over the ears.  I think a slouchy or floppy hat would not really suit the chemo triple purpose of keeping the head warm, covering up the loss of hair, and being non-irritating.  Here is a photo of me, modelling it:

I chose to make it out of Quince & Co Lark.  This is a 100% wool yarn, and many would argue against using wool for a chemo hat, but it is a very high quality, extremely soft wool that I thought would hold its stitch definition, respond well to being washed and hung out to dry frequently, and would look nice.  I bought it in Black and Taupe because I think that these colours will suit Maria’s wardrobe.  The hat is very easy to make, with an intuitive pattern.  I took the finished hat to John Lewis and spent an inordinately long time picking out the button.

I wanted to make two hats, and really struggled with the second.  I wanted to make the second with a different yarn.  I couldn’t find any cotton yarns that I was happy with.  I finally settled on the Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino DK.  This is a blend, 55% wool, 33% microfibre and 12% cashmere.  It is machine washable (though not machine dry-able).  I had it in my stash in bright red, but didn’t think this would be a good colour for Maria, especially while undergoing chemo, so I went out and bought some in a dusty blue, almost a grey blue.

Even after picking out the yarn, I had a tough time narrowing down a pattern.  I finally decided on the Odessa hat, designed by Grumperina.  It is a very pretty hat, simple but stylish.  I liked that it was quite different than the Zelda cloche.  I wanted to knit very different hats, so that Maria would have options, or in case one didn’t appeal or feel right.  Leah and I debated for a while about whether to include the beads or not.  I was pretty sure that beads were not a great detail for a hat intended for use during chemo.  Leah maintained that the hat was much lovelier with beads.  I ended up trying it out, knitting a few inches with the beads.  Yes, they looked really pretty, and they stayed on the outside of the hat, so that the inside remained smooth and soft (the Baby Cashmerino is really wonderfully soft).  Leah is modelling the hat in these photos.

The Odessa hat is supposed to take one ball of Baby Cashmerino.  I knitted the hat an inch longer than the pattern called for because I wanted to make sure it provided good cover.  As a result of this, I used up a few yards of yarn from a second ball.  Probably, if you don’t knit in some extra length you won’t need the extra ball, but I would suggest buying one anyway – whether you need it or not, you will knit easier for having it in reserve, and afterwards you can make matching gloves.

If you know of someone undergoing chemo, a knitted gift is very comforting, for the knitter as well as the recipient.  Though hats have an obvious function in this case, a soft shawl or blanket, or cozy socks can be just as nice.

Fuzzy and Blue

Two years ago, at Halloween, we spent a week in Edinburgh.  This Scottish city is truly fantastic. While we were there, I was knitting my Leyfi pullover, so in my mind Leyfi is associated both with Edinburgh and with Halloween.  Since today is both Halloween and a Wednesday, I thought that I would write a Wearability Wednesday post showcasing Leyfi.

Leyfi is a big, warm pullover with a lacy leaf panel running down both sleeves and across the yoke.  The photos in this post were all taken this month, after two years of wear.  Leyfi is designed by Rosemary (Romi) Hill, and was published in the Fall 2010 edition of Interweave Knits. I got the magazine in the mail, and then went out right away to buy yarn and cast on for this project.  That doesn’t happen too often; I usually let pattern designs float in my subconscious for awhile before I decide to give them a go.

As an aside, I had been following Romi Hill’s designs since I first heard of her, partly because I like her work, and partly because her business is called Designs by Romi.  This caught my eye because my sister, whose name is Romi (not a nickname, and not at all a common name) has owned a business for the past twenty years called Gardens by Romi.  My sister Romi, by the way, is a kick ass garden designer; you can see some of her work here.

I wear this sweater a lot.  It is a very big and very warm sweater, without too much shape.  In my case, it is a bit too big; you can definitely see this in the below photo:

However, I kind of like it this way.  I have seen many Leyfis that are more fitted and they look wonderful.  My Leyfi is the sweater I pull out when I want to go for a walk on a brisk fall day, or curl up with a mug of hot chocolate on a cold winter day.  It is like wearing your man’s sweater in terms of its cozy, cushy, relaxing, warmth appeal, but still manages to look pretty and feminine.  My kids used to frequently play the recording of Grover, from The Muppets, singing Fuzzy and Blue.  That’s what my Leyfi is – fuzzy and blue and comforting.

Despite this, it can still look pretty sharp.  Here are some photos of me wearing it a few weeks ago while walking around the grounds of Waddesdon Manor.  This Renaissance-style château was designed by the French architect Destailleur in 1874 for Baron Ferdinand de Rothschild.  It is now owned by the National Trust, and is a lovely property set in the Buckinghamshire countryside in England.

The manor house is open for tours, as is the wine cellar, and we have done that in the past, but on a beautiful, crisp, fall day like this one, who wants to go inside?  There is a sculpture exhibit currently on display on the grounds at Waddesdon, all of contemporary sculpture, which looks both fabulous and bizarre against the Renaissance background of the buildings and gardens.

You can see that Leyfi looks stylish and cool, even when combined with clunky hiking boots and jeans.  And see what I mean about the extraposition of new sculpture and old architecture?  The piece which we enjoyed the most was a set of mirrored shapes scattered around the leaf-strewn grass (Geometric Mirrors by Jeppe Hein). Your reflection, and the reflection of the trees and gardens, are all thrown back at different angles, and change every time you move.  Very cool.  Here, Doug tried to capture it on camera:

The pattern for Leyfi calls for two strands of yarn held together.  One is an aran weight merino wool, and the other a laceweight silk cashmere blend.  I was unable to find any similar yarn combinations, and I was very eager to cast on, so I settled for a very thick Debbie Bliss Donegal Luxury Tweed Chunky.  I like the colour a lot, and like the tweediness of it, with bits of blues and creams and greys.  However, if I were to make it again I would not use this yarn.   I think that the combination of yarn called for in the pattern probably produces a lighter fabric with more drape.  Plus, the Donegal Chunky gave me some gauge issues.  This should have been a super quick sweater to knit, but I ended up ripping and re-knitting quite a few times.  Here are some of my notes from my Ravelry project page:

“I tried the sweater on a few inches after joining in the round at the underarms, and discovered that, despite having gotten gauge on my swatch, the sweater was definitely running big. I was getting 13 st/ 4″ instead of the 14 called for. I ripped back about 6 inches until just before the first set of increases. Then I recalculated, and put in fewer increases, aiming at a finished size somewhere between the 36 and the 40 (I ended up with 132 stitches around at the bust).

I tried it on again for length when I was nearly finished and decided that I would prefer it with some waist shaping so I ripped back again. I added three sets of decreases, and then three sets of increases for the hips. I knit the sleeves on dpns and I must say I really dislike working lace with chunky yarn on dpns.

After finishing, and casting off, I tried the sweater on again, and decided that I really disliked the rolled edges. Though I didn’t mind this feature in the original pattern, the yarn that Romi Hill used had a lot more drape than the Donegal Chunky, and the rolled edges [with my yarn] looked terribly chunky and clumsy. I could also tell that it was going to get worse each time I put it on. So, I ripped back the bottom and the cuffs, and added 5 rows of seed stitch, and then cast off in seed stitch. This gave some stability to the edges, and I think it really ended up looking nice.”

I only ever wear this with jeans.  I suppose it would look good with a shortish skirt and tights and boots, or maybe a pair of wide-wale cords, but I am pretty sure that I’ve only paired it with jeans.  In this incarnation, it is a casual, outdoorsy sweater.  I think that Leyfi, if knit up in different yarn and slightly more fitted, could be a dressier piece.  Also, because of the width of the sleeves, I find it uncomfortable to fit this under a coat.  Therefore, I usually wear it outdoors on top of a turtleneck, and have Leyfi function as my coat.  In short, this is a very cute pullover, and very easy to make.  Because it is knit with chunky wool, and has a top-down all in one construction with no seams, it is very fast.  I’ve been wearing it for two years, and it still looks like new, with no pilling or wear.