How do you solve a mis-match between pattern and yarn?
As you may recall, I was having some troubles with my latest project. I had picked a pattern for a pretty little summer t-shirt; the Sunbird Top by Quenna Lee.
I had paired it with Carol Feller’s yarn, Nua, a rustic blend of wool, linen, and yak. I had nearly finished knitting it when I finally succumbed to the niggling doubts that had pursued me from the beginning: I like the pattern, I loved the yarn, but they were not a match made in heaven. The main issue was simply that the Nua is too substantial a yarn for this project. Even though I hit the gauge exactly, the yarn was too heavy to drape properly for this t-shirt, and, let’s face it: it knits up much too warm for a summer top.
I pointed out two other problems in my post outlining my difficulties with the project. First, the bottom edge was curling up, more than I thought would be fixed by a good blocking, and second, I hated the top-down cap sleeves, which were puckered and terribly annoying to knit:
Clearly, this yarn was not going to work with this pattern. However, I was reluctant to rip the whole thing out so I started thinking about ways to rescue it by re-conceptualising it as a fall sweater. Here’s what I did.
Buy some more yarn
This one made me laugh. I pushed the button to buy the yarn just minutes before I saw the comment left on my blog post by Lorenza: “Three words: sunk cost bias…” Yes, exactly! So, let’s solve this by throwing even more cash at it! My idea, however, was to turn this into a fall sweater with long sleeves which means I needed more yarn. Since I didn’t want to try to track down the right dye lot, I decided to buy a different shade and make a colour block sweater. I was going to go for a gold colour, but Doug convinced me to buy this olive green, which I adore. Isn’t it a fantastic mix?
Doug said it would look like the colour transitions you get on the ocean when the depth changes, and he was right. It reminds us of the greens and blues we saw last summer on our holiday around Vancouver Island.
Rip out the bottom 6 inches of the sweater, and re-knit with the green.
Not only did I want the sweater to have a contrasting deep border of green, but I decided right away that I didn’t want the curved edging of the Sunbird Top. It didn’t work well in this yarn, but also it wasn’t fitting into my mental concept of what I was hoping to accomplish. So, after ripping out a chunk of the bottom, I knit it down straight, keeping the lace on the sides, and then finishing with 6 rows of garter stitch (3 garter ridges) at the hem, to repeat the garter ridges above the chest on the original pattern. Not only would this tie in the new design with the old, but it would (I hoped) get rid of the curling problem on the edge. I think it turned out great.
Match the neckline finishing to the edging.
The 6 rows of garter I added to the hemline gave it a very nice finished look. I decided to add the same around the neckline. Not only did it tie all of the elements together, but it raised the neckline a crucial half inch, which matters now that the sweater is a warmer-weight fall sweater instead of a breezy summer top.
Make long sleeves.
I absolutely hated knitting the original sleeves top down. I don’t mind seaming either so the obvious thing was to knit these bottom up, flat, and then seam and set in to the shoulders. I worried a little, since I was knitting bottom up, about getting the line matched up where the blue switches over to the green, but think I planned it out perfectly:
For those who like to know these details, the sweater measures 11.5″ from the underarm to the bottom of the blue; the green is then another 5″. For the sleeves, I knit 6.5″ of green, and then switched to the blue for another 11.5″ before starting the underarm decreases. I do think that it stretched a bit when I washed it (gaining just under an inch in length), but it seems to have stretched evenly, as the colour transition still lines up perfectly.
I had to re-knit the sleeve cap three times before it fit properly. The first time, I even set it in, but the armscythe felt tight and bunchy, so I ripped the seam out, and started the cap over. I do think that the seam looks pretty good and that the cap fits much better than the original cap I was knitting top down. If you recall, when I knit the body of the garment, I started with a larger size across the top (a 46″) and then switched to a 43 at the underarms. This was definitely the wrong choice, and if I was being totally picky, I should have ripped the whole thing out and started again to make the shoulders narrower. Although I think this sleeve fits pretty well, I do feel it would be a better fit at the shoulders if it were an inch narrower at each side.
While I still have a few niggles with this, all-in-all I think it is a pretty good save! The Nua washes up great, it has a lovely silky feel to it and feels fantastic next to the skin. It is warmer than it looks (due to the yak, I suspect), while the linen makes for a rustic look and adds depth to the colour variation (the linen doesn’t pick up the dye in the same way as the wool). I have switched this on Ravelry from a Sunbird project to a “incorporates Sunbird” project, and have re-named it Ocean Waters.
Now, as often happens, I’ve knit a fall sweater just as summer kicks in!